I have an used range I purchased and all 4 elements on cook on high temp 7-8, if it was just one I would think is infinite switch, but cant understand all 4 at the same time
Hi folks. I am looking to replace an 8" coils top stove element. The ends on the element are spade style. But most of the replacements I can find are button hook style. Is there a mechanical difference between the two? Are they interchangeable?
I had a Kitchenaid Tech come out to check on our double wall ovens. The control panel beeped but no lights and nothing turned on. Was told I need a new electronic control panel and it was not available. He offered to sell me new ovens.
He did not mention a compatible Whirlpool part - WPW 10438752.
So I call Kitchenaid and they say do not use that Whirlpool part in your Kitchenaid oven. But when I look on-line I see that it is supposed to be compatible.
So now I am confused - can I use a Whirlpool part in a Kitchenaid oven - will it work. What is the downside?
The website I looked at was appliancepartspros.com - they said it is compatible.
My range is only about 8yrs old and Ive had many issues with it the latest is my oven wont light up from what I 've learned it may be the electrode bake (igniter)... if so (I just ordered one online) does anyone here would give some light if I can remove the older igniter and replace with new one (of course) without have to open the back of the stove? - I mean, can it be done just by removing the warmer drawer ?? I really need to have this repair done by Thanks given .Help Please!! Thank you.:)
Condition 1 In NORMALBAKE --Oven bake burner lights normally and comes up to temperature. Cycles off normally when it reaches temp, but broiler element never comes on for top browning. Tested broiler burner in broil mode - it works perfect and cycles normally.
information shows that the broil burner should cycle alternately with the lower burner to achieve
Condition 2 -- in CONVECTION BAKE - same problem -- however we noticed that the Convection Fan never comes on.
Going to the circuit diagram and ladder chart, it shows the bake and broil element should alternate off and on during the normal bake cycle when the thermostat calls for heat..... Also shows the convection fan should be on during the convection cycle - and electric element should cycle with alternately with the lower burner.
Logic says the there is an issue within the Logic Cycle of the control board. Control board was replaced - issue remains....
Have not tested the temperature sensor - but see from other posts it should be about 1100 ohms at room temp.-- However, since the temperature is cycling normally (tested with digital meter) it probably eliminates this issue.
Friend has a gas oven, configured for natural gas. Carbon Monoxide detector goes off, trace issue back to oven. Found heavy amounts of carbon under burner, consistent with incomplete combustion. noted air holes stamped into rear of broiler compartment not lined up to allow proper ventilation, suspect manufacturing error. Looking for anyone who might have or take a photo to doubly sure this is accurate.
We have a newer Bosch Double oven with the Right-hand Swing Doors. My wife does a lot of baking and loves that she doesnt have to reach over the hot doors to get things in and out of tbe oven. Only major flaw with this oven is there is something wrong with the built in Kitchen Timer feature. It has gotten itself locked on 4 minutes and is frozen. Can't clear it without turning the main power off from the circuit breaker (shouldnt have to do that with a new appliance!). Bosch cant figure out a solution. They replaced the oven and the same problem happened with 2 weeks of using the new oven! Something is wrong with the software, or controller, or both. Has anyone else experienced this?
The other night I decided to use the self clean mode on the top oven. Self clean worked fine, however at the end of the cycle the top door stayed latched and there is no heat to either the top or bottom oven. 3 years ago I had to replace the top oven door latch after self cleaning, but there was heat to both ovens. This time the door is latched and no heat. I turned off power hoping something would reset, however that did not correct the problem.
The other night I decided to use the self clean mode on the top oven. Self clean worked fine, however at the end of the cycle the top door stayed latched and there is no heat to either the top or bottom oven. 3 years ago I had to replace the top oven door latch after self cleaning, but there was heat to both ovens. This time the door is latched and no heat. I turned off power hoping something would reset, however that did not correct the problem.
Changed the touch pad and erc on a kenmore range ( whirlpool). Plugged the oven in and the erc coming up with the time and PF, and the touch pad will not do anything, checked all the connections, ribbon strip is in tight, ordered another erc and pad and still the same thing, is there something that has to be done to start the erc, part number are 8272702 and 8190201. :wall:
I have a Bertazzoni X304GGVX hooked up to propane that takes over an hour to preheat to 400 degrees F, if ever, I usually just cook longer or use the grill.
It starts fine just won't heat. I've ordered a new thermocouple as I've read on other boards that they have a tendency to fail and could be the culprit for many issues, although I haven't been able to find anyone with my model and setup. I've been told that it shouldn't have anything to do with being hooked up to propane. Our top burners work fine, even run a little hot. I'm going to try and replace the thermocouple first to see if that helps, then I may try replacing the thermostat. I'm hoping someone has had this experience or has suggestions to fix the problem.
Hi!
Please help if you can!
Oven burners and oven will light, but pilot light does not seem to work correctly. If we turn the oven on to lets say 250 degrees, and hold the flame over pilot light, it will come on and oven will work. It will then turn off once the oven reaches temperature. Pilot flame is then off and does not come on again. So yeah we can cook with it as long as we keep opening oven door so it does not shut off when it reaches temp. Not very efficient. 😑
Replaced the Automatic Pilot Safety valve with brand new one and still same problem 😔
Any help is Much appreciated!
Thanks!
Hi!
Please help if you can!
Oven burners and oven will light, but pilot light does not seem to work correctly. If we turn the oven on to lets say 250 degrees, and hold the flame over pilot light, it will come on and oven will work. It will then turn off once the oven reaches temperature. Pilot flame is then off and does not come on again. So yeah we can cook with it as long as we keep opening oven door so it does not shut off when it reaches temp. Not very efficient. 😑
Replaced the Automatic Pilot Safety valve with brand new one and still same problem 😔
Any help is Much appreciated!
Thanks!