HOTPOINT oven baking element

So...I had the new experience of having my baking element "explode" in my oven a couple of weeks ago. Quite the deal since it set my home alarm off and smoke was pouring out of the oven! Stinky smoke too.

Long story short. Replaced the element and now the entire unit will not turn off. I saw that another person had a similar situation but mine had nothing to do with a cleaning mode. So? Who can help? I'd be sooo grateful!

via HOTPOINT oven baking element
by Birdieonabike

Samsung range NE58F9710WS/AA

Replaced broken glass / main cooktop. Everything still worked prior. Now shows nothing except clock on display.

via Samsung range NE58F9710WS/AA
by Nita Thurman Wilkinson

LG LRE3083ST/1 not heating. Elements not getting power

Long post, bring a sandwich.

A month or so ago my wife and I noticed a melting plastic smell in our kitchen. A couple days after that my wife sent me at message at work (I'm in Automation Maintenance) and told me that the oven wouldn't heat and that she was getting an F9 no heat error. I told her to try out the broil function and she confirmed that was coming on. Confident me diagnosed it sight unseen as a bad heating element and ordered one from work. She later contacted me again to tell me that she had decided to make some garlic bread in the oven with only the broil function and that it worked for a while and then quit heating. That morning when I got home I pulled out the bake element which was absolutely perfect but I continuity tested it anyway. It's fine. For giggles I did the broil element and convection element as well which are also fine.

Kicking it up a notch I tested both the thermal fuse (fine) and the temperature sensor (correct resistance). Upon closer inspection I thought I found my smoking gun as one of the relays on the control board was melting and the wire was burned. Being a cheap ass, my first repair attempt was to just desolder and replace the relay. $7 is better than $90 right? I cut back the burned wire section and put on a new flag terminal. Well, when reinstalling the board I still had the same issue. I also noticed that the relay wasn't tripping. I assumed at first that there was a bad relay but it bench tested fine when I took it back off the pcb. I figured out that this was because of a diode on the pcb which connects both sides of the relay coil. The diode had failed and was allowing the pilot current to bypass the relay coil. Easter was looming and I love me some ham so I gave it one last ditch attempt and pulled the diode off the broil circuit which we weren't planning to absolutely need for Sunday dinner and moved that over to the relay that was having issues. Reinstalled the board and no joy. Took a look at the envelope schematic and troubleshooting guide and it also pointed to the relay control board.

I hypothesized that maybe there were other components on the board that had failed and defeatedly ordered the full part. I ordered EBR74164805 but the supplier instead delivered EBR74164804 to me on Good Friday. This appears to be the board for the nonconvection oven and was close but no cigar. Crock pot ham was in my future.

Finally the correct part arrived yesterday and this morning I installed it. I'm still getting the same no heat condition and none of the 3 elements are getting power. The troubleshooting document suggested that it could also be the main PCB if the control board didn't fix it but it seems unlikely to me that I would have a toasted relay on the control board and the main PCB failing simultaneously. I'm not fully inclined to believe that the main PCB would've been the causation for the relay staying on as then it seems like the oven should still fire up but not shut off until the new control board melts the relay.

Any help is appreciated.

via LG LRE3083ST/1 not heating. Elements not getting power
by rslaback

Kenmore Electric Range: Lose switch

Hi,
I have a Kenmore slide-in electric range model# 790.46703605. I have a hard time turning off the two switches. The two smaller heating elements (rear right and rear left coils) continue to heat on low setting even after I turn the knobs to the off position. I have to fiddle around the knob to shut-off the heating completely. Looks like the switches beneath the knobs corresponding to the two smaller heating elements need to be replaced. I would greatly appreciate if someone could help me identify the correct replacement parts and provide reference to any video that may help me replace the parts.

Thanks.
Mari

via Kenmore Electric Range: Lose switch
by mvc

PCG486GD/02 Thermador Range gas burner won't light

Hi all! Thanks in advance for reading about my issue. My parents have a Thermador Range Model PCG486GD/02. It has 4 burners on the left, a griddle in the middle, and 2 burners on the right. I've repaired it once already (1 unrelated burner not sparking).

Now, the two left-most burners are sparking nice and strong but are not lighting. The problem seems to be no gas flow. I can't hear the gas hissing out of the burner and I can't smell any gas either. The other 4 burners work fine. I'm thinking the solenoid gas valve, which would be this part. Do you guys agree? Also - and this may be a dumb question - but there's one solenoid for every burner, right? So I'd need 2 of them? I guess it seems unlikely that both solenoids would fail at the same time. Maybe it's something else?

Any other ideas? Thank you!

via PCG486GD/02 Thermador Range gas burner won't light
by swedespeed

Thermador Range gas burner won't light

Hi all! Thanks in advance for reading about my issue. My parents have a Thermador Range Model PCG486GD/02. It has 4 burners on the left, a griddle in the middle, and 2 burners on the right. I've repaired it once already (1 unrelated burner not sparking).

Now, the two left-most burners are sparking nice and strong but are not lighting. The problem seems to be no gas flow. I can't hear the gas hissing out of the burner and I can't smell any gas either. The other 4 burners work fine. I'm thinking the solenoid gas valve, which would be this part. Do you guys agree? Also - and this may be a dumb question - but there's one solenoid for every burner, right? So I'd need 2 of them? I guess it seems unlikely that both solenoids would fail at the same time. Maybe it's something else?

Any other ideas? Thank you!

via Thermador Range gas burner won't light
by swedespeed

Iberna Oven not turning on

Hi,

We have just moved into a new property which has an integrated single oven. We was told by the previous owner that hes never used the oven because the cable was too short. The oven looks brand new, no signs of any cooking - all the trays and shelves are inside etc.

We have wired it up and all we get on the LCD display is a single flashing dot.

Holding button 1&2 makes the whole LCD flash (auto, 88:88 and a bell) and there's a chirp-chirp-chirping sound as you hold the buttons.
Holding buttons 3&4 makes 88 flash on the first two numbers on the display.
Holding button 4 makes a standard 0:00 flash on the screen.
Using buttons 5/6 (+/-) in combo with any of these does nothing.
I've tried all sorts of combos just in case.

The hobs are hooked into the same circuit and the ignition on those works fine. I've tried wiring the oven to a standard plug and tried another socket, no difference.
I've checked the connections on the back of the oven and it's all connected correctly and securely.

Interestingly, there's another identical oven in the back garden (presumably replaced by this one) that when plugged in does exactly the same. Could be coincidence..but makes me wonder if there is some special knack to turning it on or resetting it.

Manual can be found here if it helps:
http://www.waterline.co.uk/pdfmanual...s%20240910.pdf


Any ideas...before I just buy a new oven? :(

via Iberna Oven not turning on
by Sygun