Dynasty DGRS-30-4 oven thermostat

I've got a Dynasty range, model DRGS-30-4. The oven keeps overshooting the set temperature, blowing way past it every time we use it. I want to replace the thermostat. Ordered the replacement from partstore.com but after 2 weeks they wrote me back that it's no longer being manufactured. Dvorson's, in California, seems to be the only place that has most parts for these (we've bought a couple things here and there from them over the years), but when I called them today they said that part is no longer manufactured by anyone and basically we're out of luck.

I don't want to have to scrap this entire range, because it's great in every other way. But we really can't not have an oven, so I need to do something. I'm comfortable working with electronics and electrical stuff, but I don't really know where to start when looking for a replacement thermostat. The cheap universal ones I'm seeing around, like on Amazon, don't have the right sized dials (the Dynasty has a big, chunky one) and it doesn't look like our knob would fit on the shaft they provide.

So is there any hope here?

Thanks!

via Dynasty DGRS-30-4 oven thermostat
by friolator

CMT227NPRS Thermador Factory Looking Replacement Knobs?

We have a Thermador CMT227NPRS built-in oven and the larger 1 5/8" (40-42mm) knobs have all finally stopping working correctly. Since this model has a fairly standard knob stem, replacement knobs are pretty easy to find, but ones that look right aren't.

Has anyone seen or found some really great factory looking knobs for this model? The knob design is also shared by some Bosch models. Thank you in advance for any assistance! :encouragement:

via CMT227NPRS Thermador Factory Looking Replacement Knobs?
by Samir

HBN455AUC/01 Bosch Double Oven - Temperatures too low in both ovens

New home, new appliances, new problems. I have a Bosch HBN455AUC/01 electric double oven. . . ~10 years old. The top oven is convection/conventional; the bottom oven is conventional only. Both ovens have a self-cleaning option which I do not plan to use. Neither oven will reach the set temperature - both seem to be low by ~50 degrees.

Despite being rather new, this oven appears to be quite conventional - set a dial to temperature, turn the oven ON, BAKE, BROIL, etc. There is a timer but very little digital involvement. The top oven has 3 convection options which seem to speed up the fan; but the fan runs on lower speed any time any oven is in use. After checking, all the heating elements appear to work (glow red). The low-speed fan works okay and the high-speed fan (or maybe one single fan turned to high) works okay.

After looking at the parts schematic, there are four sensors of interest:

2 are listed as 'thermometers' - adjustable units located behind the front control panel. Each thermometer unit has a long cable terminating in a sensor bulb. The cable runs around the cabinet, enters through the back edge to the bulb mounted next to the broiler element. In the pic below, I've listed them as A and B (A is upper oven, B lower).



2 more sensors are listed as 'thermostats'. These are long probes, mounted by 2 screws, that enter from the rear of the cabinet. They mount alongside the broiler element, just outboard of the thermometer bulbs. I labeled them C and D (only one part is shown, but there is an identical probe in the lower oven - both have same part number).



PROBLEMS: neither oven gets fully up to heat - heat light turns OFF before set temperature is reached (by ~ 50 degrees F). Same result convection or conventional. Both ovens seem very slow to heat.

SOLUTION SO FAR: I've checked the burner elements and fans. Tomorrow, I plan to remove both thermostats and check them for resistance (~1100 ohms at room temperature and some greater resistance at 212 deg F.)

At least one article I read said the thermostats (C + D) are only used during the self-cleaning cycle. The thermometers (A + B) actually control heat during normal use. Does anybody know about this?

I am confused as to why there are two different sets of temperature sensing equipment essentially doing the same or similar job. Did I miss something? Are there other sensors that I'm missing altogether?

If I check the thermostats (C + D) for resistance and they test okay, what should I do next?

Thanks.

Attached Thumbnails

 

via HBN455AUC/01 Bosch Double Oven - Temperatures too low in both ovens
by Dave5358

Help needed with Bosch Double Oven

New home, new appliances, new problems. I have a Bosch HBN455AUC/01 electric double oven. . . ~10 years old. The top oven is convection/conventional; the bottom oven is conventional only. Both ovens have a self-cleaning option which I do not plan to use. Neither oven will reach the set temperature - both seem to be low by ~50 degrees.

Despite being rather new, this oven appears to be quite conventional - set a dial to temperature, turn the oven ON, BAKE, BROIL, etc. There is a timer but very little digital involvement. The top oven has 3 convection options which seem to speed up the fan; but the fan runs on lower speed any time any oven is in use. After checking, all the heating elements appear to work (glow red). The low-speed fan works okay and the high-speed fan (or maybe one single fan turned to high) works okay.

After looking at the parts schematic, there are four sensors of interest:

2 are listed as 'thermometers' - adjustable units located behind the front control panel. Each thermometer unit has a long cable terminating in a sensor bulb. The cable runs around the cabinet, enters through the back edge to the bulb mounted next to the broiler element. In the pic below, I've listed them as A and B (A is upper oven, B lower).



2 more sensors are listed as 'thermostats'. These are long probes, mounted by 2 screws, that enter from the rear of the cabinet. They mount alongside the broiler element, just outboard of the thermometer bulbs. I labeled them C and D (only one part is shown, but there is an identical probe in the lower oven - both have same part number).



PROBLEMS: neither oven gets fully up to heat - heat light turns OFF before set temperature is reached (by ~ 50 degrees F). Same result convection or conventional. Both ovens seem very slow to heat.

SOLUTION SO FAR: I've checked the burner elements and fans. Tomorrow, I plan to remove both thermostats and check them for resistance (~1100 ohms at room temperature and some greater resistance at 212 deg F.)

At least one article I read said the thermostats (C + D) are only used during the self-cleaning cycle. The thermometers (A + B) actually control heat during normal use. Does anybody know about this?

I am confused as to why there are two different sets of temperature sensing equipment essentially doing the same or similar job. Did I miss something? Are there other sensors that I'm missing altogether?

If I check the thermostats (C + D) for resistance and they test okay, what should I do next?

Thanks.

Attached Thumbnails

 

via Help needed with Bosch Double Oven
by Dave5358

LWD3010ST Help with Double Wall Oven Never Buying LG again

We used the self clean on the upper oven the first time and had to replace three parts to get it to work again. This time I use the self clean on the upper oven with no problems. So I did the lower over now I have no power to the ovens. I check the power come in to the oven and there is power checked the 2-250v 20a fuse and they check ok, could it be the Low Voltage Transformer is there a way to test it? Power must have stop before clean was done because the lower door was still locked. I'm lost help please

via LWD3010ST Help with Double Wall Oven Never Buying LG again
by BIGJOHN033

Help with Double Wall Oven Never Buying LG again

We used the self clean on the upper oven the first time and had to replace three parts to get it to work again. This time I use the self clean on the upper oven with no problems. So I did the lower over now I have no power to the ovens. I check the power come in to the oven and there is power checked the 2-250v 20a fuse and they check ok, could it be the Low Voltage Transformer is there a way to test it? Power must have stop before clean was done because the lower door was still locked. I'm lost help please

via Help with Double Wall Oven Never Buying LG again
by BIGJOHN033

Jenn-air jes98000aaw The touch pad has no power due to loss of the neutral.

I have a Jenn-air down draft oven that is not working due to the lost of the neutral lead in a snow storm. We loss anything that was low voltage. The stove top still works but the control board to the oven and clock is dead. I have the part list and wiring diagram from someone on a different blog (Thank you very much) but he was unable to help me find the part that I need to replace. How do I tell if its the control board or the relay or something else? Can anyone help, please. Thank you

via Jenn-air jes98000aaw The touch pad has no power due to loss of the neutral.
by helpmewithmyoven

GE Monogram Double Oven (One Oven does not work)

Good Evening. I have a GE monogram double oven #ZET 1058 SF3SS and the top oven will not work. When you turn the knob to any setting there is no response, no lights, no beeps on the display. When you set it to clean the fan and the clean lights comes on. The lower oven works very well. The oven is 14 years old and the upper oven gets 95% of the use . Can someone give some advise on what is wrong please. Thanks in advance.

via GE Monogram Double Oven (One Oven does not work)
by joedadog

Follow up to Oven slow to warm

Your site was down for maintenance but I was able to solve my problem with my GE being slow-to-warm by replacing the Oven Controller. Before fixing, both the bottom and broiler (even when set to broil) heating elements would not glow. It use take over 30 minutes to get to 350. Now it takes 5-6 minutes.

However, you mentioned in another post that both elements should glow when heating the oven for baking. We are not seeing the broiler heating element glow. It glows only when on broil. Do I still have a problem. This is great site.

via Follow up to Oven slow to warm
by Whiskey

HGS5052UC/01 Bosch range - neither oven nor broiler will light

OK, sorry for the length of this post, but I am looking for advice as much as repair info. I have a 10+ year old Bosch freestanding gas range, fueled by propane, that has not been terribly reliable, and has required multiple repairs in the past. Currently it has several problems, but the most pressing is that neither the oven nor the broiler will light.

I bought this range from my local independently owned appliance shop, and at the time they told me it was high quality and very reliable. Over the years I used their repair services as problems arose, but they have changed ownership and the quality of repairs have declined while the price has gone up. I called Bosch to ask for authorized repair shops, and was given the name of my local place, another place that has about a 1 star rating on Yelp, and a place that has decent reviews except for the part where everybody says they are terribly expensive.

Last year at this time the oven wasn't lighting, so I found an independent appliance repair guy and he fixed the igniter. It cost me about $250.00. Later in the year I had him back to repair a burner that wouldn't light without a match. That repair (which ended up costing me about $300) was too hard for him - it took him 3 visits, and he never got it quite right. Now that burner lights with the pilot light but it's not adjusted properly and the flames are difficult to control. And the range has a second burner not lighting without a match.

So - my questions. First of all, what's the most likely cause for both the oven and the broiler failing simultaneously? Is this a very expensive repair, or can you give me an idea of what I should expect should I call a Bosch authorized repair shop. I have actually contacted a couple of other shops recommended to me through a Facebook group, but none of them want to work on a Bosch - shall I keep trying to find an independent place vs. Bosch authorized? Anybody out there who works on Bosch in the MetroWest Boston area?

Is it time to just give up on this appliance? I paid close to $2000 for it, and don't want to spend that much on a replacement. I see multiple decent looking ranges in the 650-800 price range at places like Sears, Home Depot, and Best Buy - depending on the cost of this repair, that would be close to what I've spent repairing this 10 year old range in the last 12 months. If I decide to cut my losses and replace it, will I be happy with any of those less expensive models, and which would you recommend?

This is actually the third gas range I've had in my 22 years in this house. Does this seem excessive, or does the fact that I am using propane shorten the live of these things, so I should just expect I will be replacing them more frequently?

Thanks in advance for any advice here!

via HGS5052UC/01 Bosch range - neither oven nor broiler will light
by carmen617

SEC302 Thermador double wall oven - randomly shuts off when baking

Thermador SEC302 double wall oven will randomly shut off when baking.

Both the upper and lower ovens will randomly shut off when I am trying to cook something.

The clock and control panel work normally but I occasionally get fault code F-64.

F-64, as near as I can tell, seems to indicate there is a problem with the air sensor / fan switch located in one of the blower motors.

I think older ovens had a air sensor / paddle in the sheet metal of the exhaust air duct and the newer models, like mine, have a sensor built into the exhaust fans.

I originally thought I should replace both the upper and lower blower motors (which have the air sensors built into them, I think) but it may be a control board issue since both sensors seem to be having a problem and it seems unlikely that they would both go bad at the same time.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Brian

via SEC302 Thermador double wall oven - randomly shuts off when baking
by Air Cooled

SEC302 Thermador double wall oven

Thermador SEC302 double wall oven will randomly shut off when baking.

Both the upper and lower ovens will randomly shut off when I am trying to cook something.

The clock and control panel work normally but I occasionally get fault code F-64.

F-64, as near as I can tell, seems to indicate there is a problem with the air sensor / fan switch located in one of the blower motors.

I think older ovens had a air sensor / paddle in the sheet metal of the exhaust air duct and the newer models, like mine, have a sensor built into the exhaust fans.

I originally thought I should replace both the upper and lower blower motors (which have the air sensors built into them, I think) but it may be a control board issue since both sensors seem to be having a problem and it seems unlikely that they would both go bad at the same time.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Brian

via SEC302 Thermador double wall oven
by Air Cooled

Bosch range - neither oven nor broiler will light

OK, sorry for the length of this post, but I am looking for advice as much as repair info. I have a 10+ year old Bosch freestanding gas range, fueled by propane, that has not been terribly reliable, and has required multiple repairs in the past. Currently it has several problems, but the most pressing is that neither the oven nor the broiler will light.

I bought this range from my local independently owned appliance shop, and at the time they told me it was high quality and very reliable. Over the years I used their repair services as problems arose, but they have changed ownership and the quality of repairs have declined while the price has gone up. I called Bosch to ask for authorized repair shops, and was given the name of my local place, another place that has about a 1 star rating on Yelp, and a place that has decent reviews except for the part where everybody says they are terribly expensive.

Last year at this time the oven wasn't lighting, so I found an independent appliance repair guy and he fixed the igniter. It cost me about $250.00. Later in the year I had him back to repair a burner that wouldn't light without a match. That repair (which ended up costing me about $300) was too hard for him - it took him 3 visits, and he never got it quite right. Now that burner lights with the pilot light but it's not adjusted properly and the flames are difficult to control. And the range has a second burner not lighting without a match.

So - my questions. First of all, what's the most likely cause for both the oven and the broiler failing simultaneously? Is this a very expensive repair, or can you give me an idea of what I should expect should I call a Bosch authorized repair shop. I have actually contacted a couple of other shops recommended to me through a Facebook group, but none of them want to work on a Bosch - shall I keep trying to find an independent place vs. Bosch authorized? Anybody out there who works on Bosch in the MetroWest Boston area?

Is it time to just give up on this appliance? I paid close to $2000 for it, and don't want to spend that much on a replacement. I see multiple decent looking ranges in the 650-800 price range at places like Sears, Home Depot, and Best Buy - depending on the cost of this repair, that would be close to what I've spent repairing this 10 year old range in the last 12 months. If I decide to cut my losses and replace it, will I be happy with any of those less expensive models, and which would you recommend?

This is actually the third gas range I've had in my 22 years in this house. Does this seem excessive, or does the fact that I am using propane shorten the live of these things, so I should just expect I will be replacing them more frequently?

Thanks in advance for any advice here!

via Bosch range - neither oven nor broiler will light
by carmen617

Whirlpool oven not working

Bottom line is the oven will not operate. The other day after turning oven on heard a Pop, and the oven would not heat at all. The broiler works, and the burners work. I have replaced the igniter but did not resolve issue. When replacing igniter I noticed that a bare wire may have touched the frame of the oven. The control panel seems fine push bake select temp but no results.

via Whirlpool oven not working
by roger58

Clicking when Oven plugged in

When I plugged my Spectra XL44 oven in, the oven heats up but there's a loud constant clicking noise comes on, if I turn the oven light on, the clicking noise slows down, instead of a constant steady "click click", it goes "click" two-three seconds "click".
I know this sounds weird but just started happening.I tried to unscrew the light bulb but can't get it unscrewed.

via Clicking when Oven plugged in
by windella

LRE30453ST LG Oven/Range not heating

I have a 2012 LG Range/oven that acutely stopped heating. Top panel turns on and I can hear the clicking sounds like it is turning on but nothing heats up...no top burners or oven heat. Any thoughts would be much appreciated! My wife is going to kill me if I don't get HER stove back up and running ASAP! LOL!!!

Thanks,
JIm

via LRE30453ST LG Oven/Range not heating
by jbowman5

Thermador double wall oven

Thermador SEC302 double wall oven will randomly shut off when baking.

Both the upper and lower ovens will randomly shut off when I am trying to cook something.

The clock and control panel work normally but I occasionally get fault code F-64.

F-64, as near as I can tell, seems to indicate there is a problem with the air sensor / fan switch located in one of the blower motors.

I think older ovens had a air sensor / paddle in the sheet metal of the exhaust air duct and the newer models, like mine, have a sensor built into the exhaust fans.

I originally thought I should replace both the upper and lower blower motors (which have the air sensors built into them, I think) but it may be a control board issue since both sensors seem to be having a problem and it seems unlikely that they would both go bad at the same time.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Brian

via Thermador double wall oven
by Air Cooled

LG Oven/Rangenot heating

I have a 2012 LG Range/oven that acutely stopped heating. Top panel turns on and I can hear the clicking sounds like it is turning on but nothing heats up...no top burners or oven heat. Any thoughts would be much appreciated! My wife is going to kill me if I don't get HER stove back up and running ASAP! LOL!!!

Thanks,
JIm

via LG Oven/Rangenot heating
by jbowman5

VGIC305-4BSS VIKING Factory service manual please? Doing a complete refurb

Hello and thank you in advance for your help in a project my wife thinks I'm crazy for doing..


I have begun a tear down to do a refurb on this stove. It's in good shape other than the friggin mouse poop I discovered in the burner box area. I have to replace the insulation between top of the oven and the burner box as the mice urinated in the corners which have a hole/opening - the insulation is ruined. Nasty....

I've scoured the web and can't get the specific service manual . The stove is discontinued (Mfgr date - 1999 ) and I can only find manuals that are "similar". I don't know what the "I" stands for in VGIC. I'm assuming model means "Viking Gas Infrared Convection". I've seen "VGSC" manuals, but that unit is a "Viking Gas Self Cleaning" . I know it may be "close enough" but I'd still like to have the exact one if it all possible.

Thanks, Bob

via VGIC305-4BSS VIKING Factory service manual please? Doing a complete refurb
by Bc3

VIKING Factory service manual please? Doing a complete refurb

Hello and thank you in advance for your help in a project my wife thinks I'm crazy for doing..


I have begun a tear down to do a refurb on this stove. It's in good shape other than the friggin mouse poop I discovered in the burner box area. I have to replace the insulation between top of the oven and the burner box as the mice urinated in the corners which have a hole/opening - the insulation is ruined. Nasty....

I've scoured the web and can't get the specific service manual . The stove is discontinued (Mfgr date - 1999 ) and I can only find manuals that are "similar". I don't know what the "I" stands for in VGIC. I'm assuming model means "Viking Gas Infrared Convection". I've seen "VGSC" manuals, but that unit is a "Viking Gas Self Cleaning" . I know it may be "close enough" but I'd still like to have the exact one if it all possible.

Thanks, Bob

via VIKING Factory service manual please? Doing a complete refurb
by Bc3

NE58H9970WS/AC Simmering and Oven Heat Loss Issues on Samsung Induction Range

I bought my Samsung Chef's Collection induction stove (NE58H9970WS/AC) about 15 months ago and have had the warranty extended till next month because of a couple of service calls. I would appreciate some clarification on a couple of issues.

First, Until I bought this stove I had analogue controls for stovetop cooking and therefore could be precise in the level of heat I applied to liquids for simmering. Now that I have this induction range I find that I don't have that control any more. This range has a setting for each element that says "Simmer" but when I choose that setting liquids for the most part just sit there. There might be an occasional bubble but often there's nothing. if I take the temperature of the liquid it will be 180-195, which is supposedly a simmering temperature, but I'm used to seeing sauces move a bit when I simmer. If I move the temperature, the liquid will often lightly boil (but not simmer). This issue seems to be a problem with digital calibration of the stovetop. So a few questions: What I'd like to know is if this issue can be addressed when calibration of heat settings is digital. Is my stovetop defective, or is this lack of precision just something that all new stoves have? Can you say a liquid is simmering if the liquid isn't moving? What can I expect from service for this issue? I've just requested service for this issue and the person I spoke to on the phone, not the technician, told me this a common problem with digital calibration. Am I supposed to accept a stove that can't simmer?

A second issue is that the oven loses heat unexpectedly when baking. So if I set the oven to 400, sometimes the heat is maintained throughout the bake, but sometimes will drop up to 50-60 degrees. I discover this by shutting the oven off briefly and then setting temp at say 405. This is without opening the oven. This stove allows for up to 35 degrees adjustment of oven heat for the sensor but so far this hasn't made a difference. What this means is that when baking chicken wings or fries or something that needs heat to brown and crisp, I get inconsistent results. Same goes for baking veggies at a high heat. About every 4 times I used the oven, I find this heat loss occurring. I assume the issue is the heat sensor in the oven, but why is it acting inconsistently, sometimes properly, sometimes not. Is the solution a new heat sensor, or something else?

Thanks for any feedback you can provide.

via NE58H9970WS/AC Simmering and Oven Heat Loss Issues on Samsung Induction Range
by Peter Morgan

LRE30453ST LG electric range oven stopped working

The LG Electric Range was working fine until a few days ago. I turned the oven on bake and placed some chicken in the oven and within 5 minutes I heard a loud pop and the stove went dead. I checked the breaker and it had tripped. I reset the breaker and the counter top is working, but not the oven. Can someone please provide some guidance on what my options are? My son has a multimeter if one is needed. Thanks

PS: The model year of the range is 2009.

Eddie

via LRE30453ST LG electric range oven stopped working
by eddie57

Simmering and Oven Heat Loss Issues on Samsung Induction Range

I bought my Samsung Chef's Collection induction stove (NE58H9970WS/AC) about 15 months ago and have had the warranty extended till next month because of a couple of service calls. I would appreciate some clarification on a couple of issues.

First, Until I bought this stove I had analogue controls for stovetop cooking and therefore could be precise in the level of heat I applied to liquids for simmering. Now that I have this induction range I find that I don't have that control any more. This range has a setting for each element that says "Simmer" but when I choose that setting liquids for the most part just sit there. There might be an occasional bubble but often there's nothing. if I take the temperature of the liquid it will be 180-195, which is supposedly a simmering temperature, but I'm used to seeing sauces move a bit when I simmer. If I move the temperature, the liquid will often lightly boil (but not simmer). This issue seems to be a problem with digital calibration of the stovetop. So a few questions: What I'd like to know is if this issue can be addressed when calibration of heat settings is digital. Is my stovetop defective, or is this lack of precision just something that all new stoves have? Can you say a liquid is simmering if the liquid isn't moving? What can I expect from service for this issue? I've just requested service for this issue and the person I spoke to on the phone, not the technician, told me this a common problem with digital calibration. Am I supposed to accept a stove that can't simmer?

A second issue is that the oven loses heat unexpectedly when baking. So if I set the oven to 400, sometimes the heat is maintained throughout the bake, but sometimes will drop up to 50-60 degrees. I discover this by shutting the oven off briefly and then setting temp at say 405. This is without opening the oven. This stove allows for up to 35 degrees adjustment of oven heat for the sensor but so far this hasn't made a difference. What this means is that when baking chicken wings or fries or something that needs heat to brown and crisp, I get inconsistent results. Same goes for baking veggies at a high heat. About every 4 times I used the oven, I find this heat loss occurring. I assume the issue is the heat sensor in the oven, but why is it acting inconsistently, sometimes properly, sometimes not. Is the solution a new heat sensor, or something else?

Thanks for any feedback you can provide.

via Simmering and Oven Heat Loss Issues on Samsung Induction Range
by Peter Morgan

Lg electric range oven stopped working

The range was working fine until a few days ago. I turned the oven on bake and placed some chicken in the oven and within 5 minutes I heard a loud pop and the stove went dead. I checked the breaker and it had tripped. I reset the breaker and the counter top is working, but not the oven. Can someone please provide some guidance on what my options are? My son has a multimeter if one is needed. Thanks

PS: The model year of the range is 2009.

Eddie

via Lg electric range oven stopped working
by eddie57

FE710FDRS Samsung oven does not maintain set temperature

I have Samsung FE710FDRS range. We have an issue with the oven maintaining temperature.
1. Set the oven temp to say 400 deg. wait until the range beeps
2. Without opening the oven, re-enter the temperature the oven temp by turning off (clear) the oven and hitting bake again and setting 400 deg
3. (Problem 1) The oven display will show for example 325 and will go up slowly and beep again at 400 some minutes later.
4. (Problem 2) If you are cooking something that takes a long time like a turkey or pork leg, you can repeat this in the middle of the cooking cycle and find this issue as well

If we don't re-enter the temperature, the food is uncooked.

The oven has been like since we purchased it. My wife is very frustrated. We need to constantly monitor and adjust the temperature.
Appliance is under warranty. We have a repair person coming but claming that there is no problem (and he can not wait to see how temperature drops over 1 hour for example). Oven is designed that way... There is a different repair person coming later this week
If anybody has this or has any comments appreciate it. I would to know some good way to show the defect apart from having the repair person wait for 3 hours.

via FE710FDRS Samsung oven does not maintain set temperature
by Gabriel Arce

Samsung oven FE710FDRS doesnt maintain set temperature

I have Samsung FE710FDRS range. We have an issue with the oven maintaining temperature.
1. Set the oven temp to say 400 deg. wait until the range beeps
2. Without opening the oven, re-enter the temperature the oven temp by turning off (clear) the oven and hitting bake again and setting 400 deg
3. (Problem 1) The oven display will show for example 325 and will go up slowly and beep again at 400 some minutes later.
4. (Problem 2) If you are cooking something that takes a long time like a turkey or pork leg, you can repeat this in the middle of the cooking cycle and find this issue as well

If we don't re-enter the temperature, the food is uncooked.

The oven has been like since we purchased it. My wife is very frustrated. We need to constantly monitor and adjust the temperature.
Appliance is under warranty. We have a repair person coming but claming that there is no problem (and he can not wait to see how temperature drops over 1 hour for example). Oven is designed that way... There is a different repair person coming later this week
If anybody has this or has any comments appreciate it. I would to know some good way to show the defect apart from having the repair person wait for 3 hours.

via Samsung oven FE710FDRS doesnt maintain set temperature
by Gabriel Arce