My broiler element recently stopped working. Thinking it was the element itself, I took it out and checked for cracks and continuity. No cracks, and the multimeter showed continuity.
After taking off the back, I see obvious evidence of a burning or flare-up on one of the connectors of the control board (see pics). One of these wires leads to one broiler element connector. I am not certain of the function of the one below it, also charred.
As a total rookie to this sort of thing, I am wondering of this is an obvious control board issue, or if it is the wires themselves which caused this damage and lack of function. Everything else seems to be working--as far as I know, only the broiler is dead. The hidden bake element still heats up, along with the stovetop elements.
The door on my Jenn air 8005366247 #8114p955-60 double oven will not tightly shut. The top one is fine, buy the bottom one seems to have about a 1/2" difference. Do I just need new hinges? What part numbers am I looking for?
The oven started coming on by itself. temp knob in off position. I turned everything on and off, unplugged and replugged in wall. oven came on again a couple of hours later. I unplugged stove for safety.
My bosch double ovens are only heating on broil or convection. When I put them to bake they will heat but then not hold heat. It began with the bottom oven (after overheating on the proofing setting one day) and then the top oven displayed the same behavior (also overheated during proofing bread at what should have been 100 degrees). We noticed when we made pizza and put the pans on the bottom they would not brown. I assumed the baking elements were fried (they are encased so you can't see them) so I ordered them so that they would arrive in time for the next available day we could pull them out and repair them.
But when we pulled them out everything tested fine. Both bake elements had a resistance of 28 ohms (the same as the brand new elements). Broiler elements (which still worked) tested at 14 ohms (in line with manufacturer specs) and convection elements tested at 28 (again perfect). We moved on to the temperature probes...1086 ohms, perfect. We don't see a thermostat anywhere. The wires traced from the probes go right into the relay board. All that we have read suggested a bad relay board.
We took the board to an electrical engineer friend of ours and he tested the relays. All good. I am at a complete loss. There are no corroded connections, burns, broken wires, exposed wires...etc. Please please help. That relay board is over $200. I will order it if that's the issue, but I already wasted 150 on the two bake elements :( Is there anything else we could be checking?? I am a wedding cake designer and I need to fix them as soon as possible. Thank you in advance for your time and response :)
My bosch double ovens are only heating on broil or convection. When I put them to bake they will heat but then not hold heat. It began with the bottom oven (after overheating on the proofing setting one day) and then the top oven displayed the same behavior (also overheated during proofing bread at what should have been 100 degrees). We noticed when we made pizza and put the pans on the bottom they would not brown. I assumed the baking elements were fried (they are encased so you can't see them) so I ordered them so that they would arrive in time for the next available day we could pull them out and repair them. But when we pulled them out everything tested fine. Both bake elements had a resistance of 28 ohms (the same as the brand new elements). Broiler elements (which still worked) tested at 14 ohms (in line with manufacturer specs) and convection elements tested at 28 (again perfect). We moved on to the temperature probes...1086 ohms, perfect. We don't see a thermostat anywhere. The wires traced from the probes go right into the relay board. All that we have read suggested a bad relay board. We took the board to an electrical engineer friend of ours and he tested the relays. All good. I am at a complete loss. There are no corroded connections, burns, broken wires, exposed wires...etc. Please please help. That relay board is over $200. I will order it if that's the issue, but I already wasted 150 on the two bake elements :( Is there anything else we could be checking?? I am a wedding cake designer and I need to fix them as soon as possible. Thank you in advance for your time and response :)
replaced safety valve and pilot lights fine but oven will not light. could it be the thermostat? the pilot light stays on constant with bulb in the flame of the pilot flame or out of flame seems to make no difference. the rv oven is from 1979 a lot bigger than you normal modern rv ovens. You can actually put a good size turkey in it and not just a tray of muffins.
replaced safety valve and pilot lights fine but oven will not light. could it be the thermostat? the pilot light stays on constant with bulb in the flame of the pilot flame or out of flame seems to make no difference. the rv oven is from 1979 a lot bigger than you normal modern rv ovens. You can actually put a good size turkey in it and not just a tray of muffins.
I have an lg oven that I need to clean in between the glass on the door. I tried taking out the 4 screws on the inside of the door but nothing seemed to want to come apart when I did. Any suggestions on how to get the door apart to clean in between without having to have a professional come to take it apart? Thanks for any help!
I have an lg oven that I need to clean in between the glass on the door. I tried taking out the 4 screws on the inside of the door but nothing seemed to want to come apart when I did. Any suggestions on how to get the door apart to clean in between without having to have a professional come to take it apart? Thanks for any help!
While washing my Samsung stove today with soap and water it tripped the breaker and after a process of elimination I have determined that it is actually the stove that is tripping it. As soon as plugging the stove in the breaker trips immediately. Of course it's 45 days out of warranty. I assume it has to do with the water washing the top with but it's been 2 hours and still unable to plug in without blowing the breaker, where should I start to find the problem?
I recently purchased a used a Bosch HBN655A oven after getting all hooked up when I go to push the set clock or to set timer when I press any of the + or - buttons to adjust the time nothing happens like those buttons are inop Also after using the oven once there is a heat button that illuminates when oven is preheating anyway after oven was off and cool the heat light is blinking real lightly any ideas please help thanks
I recently purchased a used a Bosch HBN 655A oven after getting all hooked up when I go to push the set clock or to set timer when I press any of the + or - buttons to adjust the time nothing happens like those buttons are inop Also after using the oven once there is a heat button that illuminates when oven is preheating anyway after oven was off and cool the heat light is blinking real lightly any ideas please help thanks
We had a power outage and when we awoke our Thermador range PGR486GDZS/01 was blinking error code 22, which means bad control board. We ordered a new control board and installed it ourselves. We purchased it at appliancePartsPro because they send full instructions on what to plug where (since the board has changed in the 13 years since we purchased the range, it's not a straightforward plug for plug).
Now after installing the new board, we thought we did something wrong because after the oven got to 350 F the fans would turn on, BUT, the oven would shut down and we'd get error code 43, which means the cooling fans don't work. We were puzzled because, we had no problem with the cooling fans prior to the power outage and we could clearly hear both fans come on.
We called for a factory service tech to come out because we were stumped. Why were we now getting an error code, when you could clearly hear the fans come on? The factory rep took a look and noticed that the one of fans wan't running as fast as the other. The slower running fan was not running fast enough to push the sail switch on the fan (or maybe it wasn't doing it quickly enough). So now it all made sense (I guess, we figure the new board wanted that sail switch triggered faster than the old board). So, the good news was we had wired the board correctly, but the bad news was that Thermador has discontinued the that particular fan (00486894). I called three local parts places in L.A., I checked all I could find on-line, even eBay and Craigslist, but zip, nada, a replacement fan was not to be found.
Out of sheer desperation, stubbornness and refusal to buy a new range (I'm kinda used to this one and it SHOULD last more than 13 years, no?). I found a place in L.A. that would take the fan apart, clean it up and lube the ball bearings (there are three, I think the guy said). He did it in one day and charged a fraction of what the part would have been new. Yureka!
I was so happy with this result I actually made a YouTube, showing the fan at work, the sail switch moving and giving a plug for this guy/shop in L.A. because, as you can well imagine, I was a happy camper. I'm hoping this will be useful to someone else out there in the same predicament we were in; payin' it forward! :-D
Here are a list of resources, hopefully these will be useful to y'all:
Where we bought the board with install instructions.
A repair manual for this range, I found this online and saved it in google drive, it's attached to this post.
The Youtube of the fan running well and sail switch moving, we wondered exactly where it was and how it worked.
The shop in L.A. that cleaned up the fan and got it working again: Abco Electric Motors, 2743 N San Fernando RoadLos Angeles, CA 90065, (323) 224-9000
Hello,
I am having issues with my LG oven not heating up. The burners on top work fine. The oven I can set anywhere over 400 and it only heats up to 355ish. It is a convection and has just the one heating element on top. But I tried the broil option and it seemed to work fine. Any ideas? Thank you.
Hello,
I am having issues with my LG oven not heating up. The burners on top work fine. The oven I can set anywhere over 400 and it only heats up to 355ish. It is a convection and has just the one heating element on top. But I tried the broil option and it seemed to work fine. Any ideas? Thank you.
I have a Maytag electric double oven #CWE5800ACB which has been working fine. I had the oven baking at 425 for 2 hours. Then used the broiler for about 15 minutes. Oven started beeping and displaying error code F3. I needed to flip switch at breaker to shut the oven/broiler off as hitting the cancel button did not work. Maybe the oven overheated? No clue.
Several hours later, after oven cooled, I flipped breaker back on and immediately the broiler came on. I hadn't even turned the oven on at that point. Once again, I turned off at breaker as pushing cancel did not work to turn the broiler off. Tried once again the next day and same thing happened.
I understand that it could be the temp sensor but why would a faulty sensor make the broiler come on when not selected to do so. Or, when the oven hasn't even been turned on yet. I'm thinking this has to be a really expensive job if I call a repair person? Can anyone help?
My oven is not holding temperature very well. It heats up fine but then if you cancel and re-set the temperature it is often 75F or more below the setpoint and thus causing inconsistent baking times. I've confirmed that the sensor is working properly with an ohm meter - any other suggestions on what to check next?
My oven is not holding temperature very well. It heats up fine but then if you cancel and re-set the temperature it is often 75F or more below the setpoint and thus causing inconsistent baking times. I've confirmed that the sensor is working properly with an ohm meter - any other suggestions on what to check next?