GE Profile Induction Cooktop Range

I have an induction range that stopped working last night - the control panel went blank but the oven light would come on when the door was open. I turned the breaker of for a few minutes then on but nothing changed. An hour later the clock started blinking, I reset it and everything worked. This morning the control panel was blank; this renders the oven and stove top completely inoperable. Any thoughts?

via GE Profile Induction Cooktop Range
by rrglaser

Kenmore cooktop 911.42709100 right front burner only works on high

Hi All,

The right front burner on the cooktop only works on high. As soon as you turn off high, burner shuts off. The other three burners work fine. It has been this way for a couple of years but my wife saw the July 4th Lowe's sale and told me to repair it or replace it! Ouch

Also, if there is a known repair, is the expense (part$ and time to dis-assemble) worth it or should I just stick a fork in it and buy a new one?

I have looked for new but I am not seeing offerings with the cut out size of mine 28 5/8 x 19 1/2
I do not have the assembly manual but it doesn't look too difficult.

Thanks in advance for any assistance. You have always been very helpful in the past.

Keith

via Kenmore cooktop 911.42709100 right front burner only works on high
by keithb

DCS Cooktop - attaching the gas line

Hello all,

I am looking for some help. I have an electric cooktop that is old and I am replacing it with a DCS 30" gas cooktop (model CDV-304-N). The gas line is already there, I just need to hook it up. But I've never worked with gas - I can do it, just need some advice. The gas line outlet is female. The yellow gas connector they gave me fits it nicely, and it appears it has it's own regulator in it (right?). But the cooktop came with a regulator also, and the red tag says "you must use it" but if you read the last line, maybe what it is really saying is "the gas flow must be regulated". So maybe the yellow line takes care of that. Thoughts? Would it be bad that I have 2 regulators possibly? Also, the reason I started thinking about this, is because the yellow gas line doesn't connect to the DCS regulator - both are female. So I thought I'd have to go buy a male to male adaptor, but that is just another "connection" i'd have to make, and another thing to tape and test for leaks. I can do it, but do I need to??

Also, do I use thread tape on every connection, or just to the gas line itself?

Also, my max BTU's are 65,000. Is it ok that this connector hose has a higher capacity range?

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via DCS Cooktop - attaching the gas line
by butlers91

Thermador Pro-Range PGR486GDZS 48 inch Griddle not igniting AGAIN!

So I was last here back in March of '09 and now June of '16 my griddle is up to it again. Actually, not sure when the thing gave out, but it's been over a year. Anyway, I got used to using a manual "clicker" to get the griddle going again and it's been a pain, but you learn to deal with it. NOW, *however*, the griddle won't stay on. So I can get it to light manually, as I just described, it will heat up to the desired temperature, but then when shuts off and won't re-light to keep the temperature. My problem back in '09 was it just wouldn't ignite, but it would then keep the temperature steady once I got it going. The whole time, however the blue light is on.

From my notes from last time I have the following part numbers:

-Spark Module for griddle 00618624

-griddle solenoid part no: 00418064
-ignition device for surface burners: 00189010

Assuming I need the spark module to light the griddle, like last time, correct?
But do I also now also need the solenoid?
Last, the two top burners that I use the most I always have to use a clicker to start. Can I simply swap the ignition thingies from two burners that I use the least? The ones I use the most are the middle front and the right front, those two don't turn on without having to use a Bic clicker.

Thanks again for all your help.

via Thermador Pro-Range PGR486GDZS 48 inch Griddle not igniting AGAIN!
by 91030Mom

Samsung NE595R0ABSR OVEN won't heat up past 150 degrees

The oven won't heat up past 150 degrees when on the convection bake setting. It does heat up to desired temperature own the regular bake setting. Any help?

via Samsung NE595R0ABSR OVEN won't heat up past 150 degrees
by TimmyD

Smooth top slide in. All stove burners dead

Oven & clock works fine. All stove top burners are dead and no led's light. Reset breakers and still no stove.

via Smooth top slide in. All stove burners dead
by Wx4usa

Thermador Pro-Range PGR486GDZS 48” Griddle not igniting AGAIN!

So I was last here back in March of '09 and now June of '16 my griddle is up to it again. Actually, not sure when the thing gave out, but it's been over a year. Anyway, I got used to using a manual "clicker" to get the griddle going again and it's been a pain, but you learn to deal with it. NOW, *however*, the griddle won't stay on. So I can get it to light manually, as I just described, it will heat up to the desired temperature, but then when shuts off and won't re-light to keep the temperature. My problem back in '09 was it just wouldn't ignite, but it would then keep the temperature steady once I got it going. The whole time, however the blue light is on.

From my notes from last time I have the following part numbers:

-Spark Module for griddle 00618624

-griddle solenoid part no: 418064
-ignition device for surface burners: 189010

Assuming I need the spark module to light the griddle, like last time, correct?
But do I also now also need the solenoid?
Last, the two top burners that I use the most I always have to use a clicker to start. Can I simply swap the ignition thingies from two burners that I use the least? The ones I use the most are the middle front and the right front, those two don't turn on without having to use a Bic clicker.

Thanks again for all your help.

via Thermador Pro-Range PGR486GDZS 48” Griddle not igniting AGAIN!
by 91030Mom