Kenmore cooktop 911.42709100 right front burner only works on high

Hi All,

The right front burner on the cooktop only works on high. As soon as you turn off high, burner shuts off. The other three burners work fine. It has been this way for a couple of years but my wife saw the July 4th Lowe's sale and told me to repair it or replace it! Ouch

Also, if there is a known repair, is the expense (part$ and time to dis-assemble) worth it or should I just stick a fork in it and buy a new one?

I have looked for new but I am not seeing offerings with the cut out size of mine 28 5/8 x 19 1/2
I do not have the assembly manual but it doesn't look too difficult.

Thanks in advance for any assistance. You have always been very helpful in the past.

Keith

via Kenmore cooktop 911.42709100 right front burner only works on high
by keithb

DCS Cooktop - attaching the gas line

Hello all,

I am looking for some help. I have an electric cooktop that is old and I am replacing it with a DCS 30" gas cooktop (model CDV-304-N). The gas line is already there, I just need to hook it up. But I've never worked with gas - I can do it, just need some advice. The gas line outlet is female. The yellow gas connector they gave me fits it nicely, and it appears it has it's own regulator in it (right?). But the cooktop came with a regulator also, and the red tag says "you must use it" but if you read the last line, maybe what it is really saying is "the gas flow must be regulated". So maybe the yellow line takes care of that. Thoughts? Would it be bad that I have 2 regulators possibly? Also, the reason I started thinking about this, is because the yellow gas line doesn't connect to the DCS regulator - both are female. So I thought I'd have to go buy a male to male adaptor, but that is just another "connection" i'd have to make, and another thing to tape and test for leaks. I can do it, but do I need to??

Also, do I use thread tape on every connection, or just to the gas line itself?

Also, my max BTU's are 65,000. Is it ok that this connector hose has a higher capacity range?

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via DCS Cooktop - attaching the gas line
by butlers91

Thermador Pro-Range PGR486GDZS 48 inch Griddle not igniting AGAIN!

So I was last here back in March of '09 and now June of '16 my griddle is up to it again. Actually, not sure when the thing gave out, but it's been over a year. Anyway, I got used to using a manual "clicker" to get the griddle going again and it's been a pain, but you learn to deal with it. NOW, *however*, the griddle won't stay on. So I can get it to light manually, as I just described, it will heat up to the desired temperature, but then when shuts off and won't re-light to keep the temperature. My problem back in '09 was it just wouldn't ignite, but it would then keep the temperature steady once I got it going. The whole time, however the blue light is on.

From my notes from last time I have the following part numbers:

-Spark Module for griddle 00618624

-griddle solenoid part no: 00418064
-ignition device for surface burners: 00189010

Assuming I need the spark module to light the griddle, like last time, correct?
But do I also now also need the solenoid?
Last, the two top burners that I use the most I always have to use a clicker to start. Can I simply swap the ignition thingies from two burners that I use the least? The ones I use the most are the middle front and the right front, those two don't turn on without having to use a Bic clicker.

Thanks again for all your help.

via Thermador Pro-Range PGR486GDZS 48 inch Griddle not igniting AGAIN!
by 91030Mom

Samsung NE595R0ABSR OVEN won't heat up past 150 degrees

The oven won't heat up past 150 degrees when on the convection bake setting. It does heat up to desired temperature own the regular bake setting. Any help?

via Samsung NE595R0ABSR OVEN won't heat up past 150 degrees
by TimmyD

Smooth top slide in. All stove burners dead

Oven & clock works fine. All stove top burners are dead and no led's light. Reset breakers and still no stove.

via Smooth top slide in. All stove burners dead
by Wx4usa

Thermador Pro-Range PGR486GDZS 48” Griddle not igniting AGAIN!

So I was last here back in March of '09 and now June of '16 my griddle is up to it again. Actually, not sure when the thing gave out, but it's been over a year. Anyway, I got used to using a manual "clicker" to get the griddle going again and it's been a pain, but you learn to deal with it. NOW, *however*, the griddle won't stay on. So I can get it to light manually, as I just described, it will heat up to the desired temperature, but then when shuts off and won't re-light to keep the temperature. My problem back in '09 was it just wouldn't ignite, but it would then keep the temperature steady once I got it going. The whole time, however the blue light is on.

From my notes from last time I have the following part numbers:

-Spark Module for griddle 00618624

-griddle solenoid part no: 418064
-ignition device for surface burners: 189010

Assuming I need the spark module to light the griddle, like last time, correct?
But do I also now also need the solenoid?
Last, the two top burners that I use the most I always have to use a clicker to start. Can I simply swap the ignition thingies from two burners that I use the least? The ones I use the most are the middle front and the right front, those two don't turn on without having to use a Bic clicker.

Thanks again for all your help.

via Thermador Pro-Range PGR486GDZS 48” Griddle not igniting AGAIN!
by 91030Mom

samsung NE595R0ABSR OVEN won't heat up past 150 degrees

The oven won't heat up past 150 degrees when on the convection bake setting. It does heat up to desired temperature own the regular bake setting. Any help?

via samsung NE595R0ABSR OVEN won't heat up past 150 degrees
by TimmyD

Changing cooktops

Just purchased a new home with a 30" Electrolux Electric Cooktop and want to swap it out for a 30" Electrolux Induction Cooktop. It is installed in a Quartz island and so am concerned about the size of the cutout. The installation instructions indicate the dimensions for the Electric are slightly different than the Induction so am wondering if anyone has any experience with this sort of a swap and how critical the dimensions are. I am unable to measure the actual cutout as I'm in a different city.

Electric Width required 29 3/4" to 30"
Induction Width required 29 5/8" to 29 3/4"

Electric depth required 20 3/8" to 20 5/8"
Induction depth required 20 3/8" to 20 1/2"

It would seem that the depth shouldn't be an issue, but the width, assuming the hole is built to spec, could be out by 1/4". Anyone know how critical this could be?

Thanks in advance.

via Changing cooktops
by BillON1

Deepfryer frying itself !

I'm looking for some insight as to what may have happened to my Rival deep fryer, it's worked well enough for ten years, using it every two or three months for just a few small batches of fries, last time I went to use it there were no signs of power at all and looking at it's current condition I'm feeling lucky it didn't catch fire ! the fried wire goes from the timer to the temperature probe clipped to the heating coil, I'm just assuming it's not powered so I'm wondering why it got so hot, enough to even melt the solder. any ideas ?

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via Deepfryer frying itself !
by pursang

LG Range Oven - Very slow to heat up

Hey,
Hello to all
We are looking for some advice. Our LG range oven LRG3093ST00 is giving us some problems.
Very slow to heat up..takes about 45 minutes to get to 300
We are getting the F11 error code occasionally

Trouble shooting I have done already:

• I have removed the bottom panel to expose the burner and the glow plug/ignitor
• Here’s what happens:
• I start the bake process
• I see the glow plug glow white hot
• It takes about three minutes and then the ignitor ignites strongly for about 3-5 seconds and then it dies down to barely lit

I guess my question is:
What components need to be replaced to resolve this problem

via LG Range Oven - Very slow to heat up
by davidleehall2

Maytag Range

Was cleaning oven today and the breaker kicked off. After resetting the breaker the oven will not come back on including the display area. I have power going to the range. Is there a reset switch or fuse in these units? Thanks for your assistance!

via Maytag Range
by iabc2012

LG Range Oven

Hey,
Hello to all
We are looking for some advice. Our LG range oven is giving us some problems.
Very slow to heat up..takes about 45 minutes to get to 300
We are getting the F11 error code occasionally

Trouble shooting I have done already:

• I have removed the bottom panel to expose the burner and the glow plug/ignitor
• Here’s what happens:
• I start the bake process
• I see the glow plug glow white hot
• It takes about three minutes and then the ignitor ignites strongly for about 3-5 seconds and then it dies down to barely lit

I guess my question is:
What components need to be replaced to resolve this problem

via LG Range Oven
by davidleehall2

Oven won't work.

The breaker popped the other day, I reset and then I heard a loud pop. The elements and sensor are good. I tested w ohm meter. What's next? Don't see any burns on control board or other wiring?

via Oven won't work.
by Tmkowalski