Viking range VGIC485GQ New Igniter won’t stop - I’ve checked everything!

We have an older Viking range. VGIC485GQ. It has 4 burners and a griddle and a grill. The right side pair of burners and grill use the same igniter module and the left pair of burners have the same module.

The right side burners stopped igniting. They would sometimes emit a weak spark or none. So I bought a new Viking module (pa020041) It is a newer module that has replaced the old one.

I installed and all of the 3 igniters are firing but it won’t stop. If I ignite the two burners, after 2-10 seconds it stops igniting. But starts again if I shut one off.

I made sure that on the module, input one and output one go to the same igniter (the outputs are reverse order of the original one).

There are 4 inputs and outputs. One input is open. The corresponding output is grounded.

I have taken apart everything and cleaned every ground path and even run extra grounds to make sure they are good.

I have inspected and checked every wire for breaks or shorts and they are all checking fine.

I actually exchanged the igniter because I could come up with no other explanation and am having the same issue.

Maybe I have the wrong igniter module??

I can’t think of any other possible explanation.
Please help!!

via Viking range VGIC485GQ New Igniter won’t stop - I’ve checked everything!
by Jfryjfry

New Igniter won’t stop - I’ve checked everything!

We have an older Viking range. Vgic485gq. It has 4 burners and a griddle and a grill. The right side pair of burners and grill use the same igniter module and the left pair of burners have the same module.

The right side burners stopped igniting. They would sometimes emit a weak spark or none. So I bought a new Viking module (pa020041) It is a newer module that has replaced the old one.

I installed and all of the 3 igniters are firing but it won’t stop. If I ignite the two burners, after 2-10 seconds it stops igniting. But starts again if I shut one off.

I made sure that on the module, input one and output one go to the same igniter (the outputs are reverse order of the original one).

There are 4 inputs and outputs. One input is open. The corresponding output is grounded.

I have taken apart everything and cleaned every ground path and even run extra grounds to make sure they are good.

I have inspected and checked every wire for breaks or shorts and they are all checking fine.

I actually exchanged the igniter because I could come up with no other explanation and am having the same issue.

Maybe I have the wrong igniter module??

I can’t think of any other possible explanation.
Please help!!

via New Igniter won’t stop - I’ve checked everything!
by Jfryjfry

Stove not pre heating

my 5 year old Kitchenaid Range will not pre heat properly, it heats up to only about 260 Degree in 1/2 Hr. instead of the set 350 Degree Temp. I have performed a " Hard Reboot" with no results. Called Customer Support for some Tech. Advise, the Agent told me to best buy a new Stove. This Stove will pre heat correctly in the Convect Cycle to 350 Degree, but not in the regular Bake Cycle. All other features on this Appliance work fine. Any Advise will be greatly appreciated, Thanks

via Stove not pre heating
by David J. Thompson

All burners ignitors click/spark after burner turned off

After using one of the cooktop burners and then turning off the burner, all burners continue to click/spark for about 15 minutes then stop. The only happens with when I use one of the burners. Any suggestions on what I should try replacing first? Spark electrodes or spark module? Or is this a grounding issue?

Thanks,
David

via All burners ignitors click/spark after burner turned off
by David G

Kenmore Elite Clock LCD MISSING GHOSTING LINES

My Kenmore Elite Oven clock digital lcd screen is missing some bars making it very hard to tell what number it is trying to display. Is there an easy way to fix this problem or will I have to buy something expensive? Thanks for any information on this. I've seen where some people fix there display on there calculators by heating and pressing against the connector film.

via Kenmore Elite Clock LCD MISSING GHOSTING LINES
by joemarchbanks

Bosch Dual Fuel HDI7282U/06 wont maintain temperature

Brand new here. Thanks in advance for your help!

We have a Bosch HDI7282U/06 dual fuel oven/range that we installed 8 years ago. It’s been working fine until 2 days ago when I noticed the oven dropping temperature during the preheat phase of a autoconvection bake. I set the oven to preheat to 400 (which it automatically drops to 375 for convection). It preheated to about 330, then started losing heat until it reached about 310 where it stayed pretty steady.

Any thoughts about what could be wrong?

via Bosch Dual Fuel HDI7282U/06 wont maintain temperature
by ryanm20

lower oven ignitor burn out and spreader crack

Have had this problem too many times. GE no help. They did send replacement parts but are the same ones as before. I think that this is a design problem they wont address. Any help would be appreciated.

via lower oven ignitor burn out and spreader crack
by SkipH327

Bosch Dual Fuel HDI7282U/06 won’t maintain temperature

Brand new here. Thanks in advance for your help!

We have a Bosch HDI7282U/06 dual fuel oven/range that we installed 8 years ago. It’s been working fine until 2 days ago when I noticed the oven dropping temperature during the preheat phase of a autoconvection bake. I set the oven to preheat to 400 (which it automatically drops to 375 for convection). It preheated to about 330, then started losing heat until it reached about 310 where it stayed pretty steady.

Any thoughts about what could be wrong?

via Bosch Dual Fuel HDI7282U/06 won’t maintain temperature
by ryanm20

LRE30453ST Bake Element Wiring

Hello,

I have a LG LRE30453ST and I replaced the relay board a few months back and the black wire going to the bake element was a little crispy on the ends. Fast forward to this weekend and the wire has disconnected from the flag terminal connecting to the bake element. I have inspected and tested the element and all appears normal, the relay board looks fine as well not crispy like old one. My issue is I need to replace the 7 inch (goes from relay board to bake element) or so long wire and I cannot determine what gauge the wire is as there are not markings on it. I know it is a high temp shielded wire with high temp flag terminals but cannot figure out the gauge. Would 14 awg be ok in this case?

Thanks,

via LRE30453ST Bake Element Wiring
by brokelg

Wolf range R366 VERY HIGH FLAME on 2 of 6 burners after I replaced electrode

I just replaced a spark electrode in the front right burner and reassembled the stove to find that suddenly that burner and the one behind it are both burning very high flames. I have replaced a spark electrode on another burner 2 years ago with no issues.
I have adjusted the air valve, but knowing I didn't alter anything disassembling it, I knew it wasn't the issue.
The repair was not the correct solution even though the electrode was very old. I think that because the knob is not producing a click when turned that it may be the spark switch behind the knob.
So the burner does not work without a lighter and the flames are wrong...sounds like a too much air going in, but I don't know see how to regulate that.
Help!

via Wolf range R366 VERY HIGH FLAME on 2 of 6 burners after I replaced electrode
by chefdave

NX58H9500WS Samsung Oven won't bake nor broil

So as it says in title, a couple weeks ago, my oven quit heating - neither broil nor bake will light. They both stopped at the same time. The broil igniter does heat up, the bake does not. The fan comes on with both (delayed with bake). The range works fine. I hear a couple clicks when turning on either bake or broil, so I assume the touchpad is OK. It would seem this is one of 3 things, but given the symptoms, I'm puzzled where to focus. Would this be a control board issue, a gas valve issue, or igniter issue? The only one that makes sense for both bake/broil going out together would be the control board, but since one igniter is working... I'm confused!

PS, the unit has had moderate usage in it's life, and is about 4 years old. I have never run the cleaning cycle. The unit is fueled by propane, if that matters.

Oh, and when I pulled the bottom inside cover off there was a 6" chunk of insulation just laying there! Not sure where/how it came to be there - I'm thinking it may have left in there from day 1 at the factory.

Any advice from the gurus on this board would be very welcome!

TIA, Dan

via NX58H9500WS Samsung Oven won't bake nor broil
by cokid

Bosch HBL3350UC wall oven heating to 500+ regardless of setpoint

Hello all-

We bought our house in October and noticed the oven cooked very fast and burned almost everything. We started adjusting temps and times from recipes to accommodate. Recently I put a thermometer in the oven just to see how off it was, and realized the problem. Whether the oven is set at 225 or 350 it heats to 500+ degrees. I ordered a temp probe replacement but that hasn’t fixed the problem.

After disassembling the interface portion of the oven, there are 2 boards Inside that I can see. A larger green control board and a smaller black board. Which should I order and try to replace?

Thanks!

Brian

via Bosch HBL3350UC wall oven heating to 500+ regardless of setpoint
by Bepding

VERY HIGH FLAME on 2 of 6 burners after I replaced electrode

I just replaced a spark electrode in the front right burner and reassembled the stove to find that suddenly that burner and the one behind it are both burning very high flames. I have replaced a spark electrode on another burner 2 years ago with no issues.
I have adjusted the air valve, but knowing I didn't alter anything disassembling it, I knew it wasn't the issue.
The repair was not the correct solution even though the electrode was very old. I think that because the knob is not producing a click when turned that it may be the spark switch behind the knob.
So the burner does not work without a lighter and the flames are wrong...sounds like a too much air going in, but I don't know see how to regulate that.
Help!

via VERY HIGH FLAME on 2 of 6 burners after I replaced electrode
by chefdave

Samsung Oven won't bake nor broil

So as it says in title, a couple weeks ago, my oven quit heating - neither broil nor bake will light. They both stopped at the same time. The broil igniter does heat up, the bake does not. The fan comes on with both (delayed with bake). The range works fine. I hear a couple clicks when turning on either bake or broil, so I assume the touchpad is OK. It would seem this is one of 3 things, but given the symptoms, I'm puzzled where to focus. Would this be a control board issue, a gas valve issue, or igniter issue? The only one that makes sense for both bake/broil going out together would be the control board, but since one igniter is working... I'm confused!

PS, the unit has had moderate usage in it's life, and is about 4 years old. I have never run the cleaning cycle. The unit is fueled by propane, if that matters.

Oh, and when I pulled the bottom inside cover off there was a 6" chunk of insulation just laying there! Not sure where/how it came to be there - I'm thinking it may have left in there from day 1 at the factory.

Any advice from the gurus on this board would be very welcome!

TIA, Dan

via Samsung Oven won't bake nor broil
by cokid

LRG3097ST LG Oven - F11 error

I have a gas range (LG LRG3097ST). It's been acting up the past month. The oven would simply stop heating midbake - basically after opening door or if I changed the temperature. I went with the relatively cheap and easy fixes hoping I had a cheap faulty component. I replaced the temperature sensor and the oven igniter. Alas, the problem is still occurring.

And it now depicts an F11 error occasionally if it fails to even start and get past the 100 degree preheat. The error code can be simply cleared and then the oven started again. So far it's always gotten past the preheat by the third or fourth try.

But then when I open the door, it will usually cause the oven to simply stop heating. No error codes pop up in that situation (as I believe the F11 is simply in reference to the oven not heating to 150 within 5 minutes), but the oven won't keep heating. For instance, I have the oven at 450. I open the door to put food in. A few minutes later I realize by my visible oven thermometer that temperature is actually 350. So I clear oven and then press bake 450. It will say preheating 350 (it will display the actual correct temperature).

And then it will simply stay there. Temperature will continue to lower (although readout will stay on that initial correct temperature - which has since drifted downwards). Then say I go to try and clear and press bake 450. It will say preheating 300 (again reading correct temperature, but then simply freezing there and again nothing will happen). I can't find any definitive help that describes my scenario. The best next step I can come up with is to replace the oven control board.

As that's a relatively expensive part, I didn't want to just guess if I didn't feel more confident in that being a solution. Any one have any advice?
Thanks!

via LRG3097ST LG Oven - F11 error
by mark10528

LG Oven - F11 error

I have a gas range (LG LRG3097ST). It's been acting up the past month. The oven would simply stop heating midbake - basically after opening door or if I changed the temperature. I went with the relatively cheap and easy fixes hoping I had a cheap faulty component. I replaced the temperature sensor and the oven igniter. Alas, the problem is still occurring. And it now depicts an F11 error occasionally if it fails to even start and get past the 100 degree preheat. The error code can be simply cleared and then the oven started again. So far it's always gotten past the preheat by the third or fourth try. But then when I open the door, it will usually cause the oven to simply stop heating. No error codes pop up in that situation (as I believe the F11 is simply in reference to the oven not heating to 150 within 5 minutes), but the oven won't keep heating. For instance, I have the oven at 450. I open the door to put food in. A few minutes later I realize by my visible oven thermometer that temperature is actually 350. So I clear oven and then press bake 450. It will say preheating 350 (it will display the actual correct temperature). And then it will simply stay there. Temperature will continue to lower (although readout will stay on that initial correct temperature - which has since drifted downwards). Then say I go to try and clear and press bake 450. It will say preheating 300 (again reading correct temperature, but then simply freezing there and again nothing will happen). I can't find any definitive help that describes my scenario. The best next step I can come up with is to replace the oven control board. As that's a relatively expensive part, I didn't want to just guess if I didn't feel more confident in that being a solution. Any one have any advice?
Thanks!

via LG Oven - F11 error
by mark10528

LRE3083ST Oven will not preheat over 350 degrees.

My LG electric range oven sticks on 350 preheat. If I set the oven to bake at say 425 degrees, it will start preheating and then stick at 350. I have checked the oven heating sensor with a multi-meter and the ohm reading is 1084 which is in the "good" range. I am now suspecting a faulty control board. I would love to get some input on this before I spend $300 on a new board.

via LRE3083ST Oven will not preheat over 350 degrees.
by jimploggersr

FX710BGS Samsung Gas Range Broiler Not working after ignitor replacement

So I just replaced my broiler ignitor in gas oven and the broiler is still not lighting. The ignitor is glowing red and working perfect. But the broiler flames are not firing. Any ideas? The oven itself (bottom burner in oven) is working fine. I smell gas when I hit the broil button and I see (and hear) a small flame burst occurs where the gas tube connects to my burner tube (there's that small opening there) and I see a small flame there but the tube never lights with all the flames in all those little holes in the burner tube. Any suggestions?

Like I said the bottom oven burner works just fine and all cook top burners working A-OK.

Thanks
Brian

via FX710BGS Samsung Gas Range Broiler Not working after ignitor replacement
by concort

Oven will not preheat over 350 degrees.

My LG electric range oven sticks on 350 preheat. If I set the oven to bake at say 425 degrees, it will start preheating and then stick at 350. I have checked the oven heating sensor with a multi-meter and the ohm reading is 1084 which is in the "good" range. I am now suspecting a faulty control board. I would love to get some input on this before I spend $300 on a new board.

via Oven will not preheat over 350 degrees.
by jimploggersr

LRE3194ST Purpose of FAVORITES key on main panel

Does anyone know the functionality of the FAVORITES key. It is not mentioned anywhere in the manual. LG Model LRE3194ST range. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

via LRE3194ST Purpose of FAVORITES key on main panel
by DanP1945

Samsung Gas Range Broiler Not working after ignitor replacement

So I just replaced my broiler ignitor in gas oven and the broiler is still not lighting. The ignitor is glowing red and working perfect. But the broiler flames are not firing. Any ideas? The oven itself (bottom burner in oven) is working fine. I smell gas when I hit the broil button and I see (and hear) a small flame burst occurs where the gas tube connects to my burner tube (there's that small opening there) and I see a small flame there but the tube never lights with all the flames in all those little holes in the burner tube. Any suggestions?

Like I said the bottom oven burner works just fine and all cook top burners working A-OK.

Thanks
Brian

via Samsung Gas Range Broiler Not working after ignitor replacement
by concort