Burnt out light socket and its wiring

My oven has a burnt out light socket, including the wires to it. Everything else seems to look okay. Is this a repair a novice could do?

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via Burnt out light socket and its wiring
by flgirl

NE595R1ABSRAA Samsung E-81 code

Our Samsung range took a dump on us the other day. The previous day, my wife ran self clean cycle. Went to use oven next day, didn't work. It let my wife set the temp. she wanted to cook at, and start the oven, but after that, nothing happened. I went and reset breaker, a error code E-81 appeared. Looked up code, it suggested it got real hot, and that the high temp. thermostat may be the culprit. It was cheap enough so I ordered one. Before I installed it, the screen on the panel was showing the time of 3:50 (which never advanced), and that the oven divider shelf was in place. So, I unplugged range, let it set for like 10-15 min., took things apart and replaced the thermostat, reassembled and wa la!...nothing. Nothing on the screen illuminated. Waited about 30 min. and nothing still. So, I'm guessing I got other problems. Anyone else have any suggestions?

via NE595R1ABSRAA Samsung E-81 code
by dano126

Samsung E-81 code

Our Samsung range took a dump on us the other day. The previous day, my wife ran self clean cycle. Went to use oven next day, didn't work. It let my wife set the temp. she wanted to cook at, and start the oven, but after that, nothing happened. I went and reset breaker, a error code E-81 appeared. Looked up code, it suggested it got real hot, and that the high temp. thermostat may be the culprit. It was cheap enough so I ordered one. Before I installed it, the screen on the panel was showing the time of 3:50 (which never advanced), and that the oven divider shelf was in place. So, I unplugged range, let it set for like 10-15 min., took things apart and replaced the thermostat, reassembled and wa la!...nothing. Nothing on the screen illuminated. Waited about 30 min. and nothing still. So, I'm guessing I got other problems. Anyone else have any suggestions?

via Samsung E-81 code
by dano126

Jenn air downdraft range broiler turns on, won't turn off

Hello, I own a Jenn air downdraft range, dont know model # yet, when I was baking the other day, the broiler turned on all of a sudden and wouldn't turn off on its own, i have turned it off at the breaker, and when i turn it back on it automatically kicks on. Trying to figure out issue because we rely heavily on the oven at our household, i have had the control panel of it worked on in the pass (about 2 years ago), so could really use some ideas.

via Jenn air downdraft range broiler turns on, won't turn off
by Taylor280

KitchenAid Oven KERS206XSS3 takes 2 hours to heat

A few months ago my KitchenAid oven/range stopped heating the oven and upon inspection I noticed that the power connector from the control board that goes out to the heating elements had melted and damaged that portion of the control board. I purchased a new control board and replaced it, and then replaced the end of the power cord with a new flag terminal connector.

The oven now works, but it takes almost 2 hours to heat up, no matter what setting I use (preheat, broil, bake, convection). It does heat up, but takes a really long time. What I have also noticed is that it keeps switching back and forth between the bake and broil elements, no matter which one I selected to heat. The switch is constant and can happen between 30 seconds to several minutes. This constant turning on/off of the elements is clearly why it is taking so long to heat up.

However, I do not understand what could be making it do this? I have tested both elements and they seem to be fine. Could it be a bad thermostat? Or a faulty control board? Or a lack of power getting through the new terminal connector?

Any ideas or suggestions?

via KitchenAid Oven KERS206XSS3 takes 2 hours to heat
by SMCunningham

Oven Buttons are not working

I am having trouble with only some of the buttons on my double oven wall unit. About half the numbers work, and about half of the other buttons work for turning on and off the ovens and bake/broil/convection buttons It is older (2004), but it is in great condition, but for the buttons which are pretty important in turning "on" the ovens. Is there anything I can do to fix this oven, as I really don't want to replace a good working oven.

Jill

via Oven Buttons are not working
by jcbuechner

VGIC3074BSS Viking natural gas oven one burner won't ignite

Viking natural gas oven one burner won't ignite even after switching igniter from L to R and R to L

I have a Viking natural gas range and noticed that the oven burners weren't igniting so I had a repair person come in on Nov 27, 2015 and tell me that I need to replace the gas supply valve (pb010084). They quoted me an obscene amount of money to supply and replace the gas valve so I sourced the part (pb010084) and replaced it myself. The pb010084 did not solve the problem so I replaced both the igniters in December, 2015 and everything has worked perfectly until today.

I noticed that the left bottom burner (left side when facing the oven door) would ignite for a few seconds and then go out while the right bottom burner continued to burn.

Here's what I have done did so far:

1. swapped the igniters by moving the L to the R and the R to the L with the result that both igniters glow, the right bottom burner fires up but the left will not even fire up anymore; and
2. installed the original pb010084 that came with the stove with the result that the right bottom burner still fires up but not the left bottom burner.

I have concluded that the igniters are not the problem since I switched them around a couple of times and only the right side fires up.

Could it be that both the original and replacement pb010084 are defective whereby only the left side is not working?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for reading.

via VGIC3074BSS Viking natural gas oven one burner won't ignite
by audit13

Viking natural gas oven one burner won't ignite even after switching igniter from L to R and R to L

I have a Viking natural gas range and noticed that the oven burners weren't igniting so I had a repair person come in on Nov 27, 2015 and tell me that I need to replace the gas supply valve (pb010084). They quoted me an obscene amount of money to supply and replace the gas valve so I sourced the part (pb010084) and replaced it myself. The pb010084 did not solve the problem so I replaced both the igniters in December, 2015 and everything has worked perfectly until today.

I noticed that the left bottom burner (left side when facing the oven door) would ignite for a few seconds and then go out while the right bottom burner continued to burn.

Here's what I have done did so far:

1. swapped the igniters by moving the L to the R and the R to the L with the result that both igniters glow, the right bottom burner fires up but the left will not even fire up anymore; and
2. installed the original pb010084 that came with the stove with the result that the right bottom burner still fires up but not the left bottom burner.

I have concluded that the igniters are not the problem since I switched them around a couple of times and only the right side fires up.

Could it be that both the original and replacement pb010084 are defective whereby only the left side is not working?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for reading.

via Viking natural gas oven one burner won't ignite even after switching igniter from L to R and R to L
by audit13

LRE30453ST/01 LG Oven/Broiler won't shut off!

My LG oven Model #LRE 30453ST /01 has become a problem since I last used the oven self-clean feature. The oven (both convection and regular) and broiler turn on and keep temperatures just fine. The problem begins when I go to turn off the oven or broiler! I push the Cancel/Off button, there is no click and the oven remains on. The only way to shut it off is to either unplug the entire range (or easier to go flip the circuit breaker)!

I checked with LG (originally to find a repair person) and they also checked the model and it is not included in any of their numerous recalls. It is over 125 miles one way to get an authorized LG repairman here, so that option is out!

My husband ordered what he thought was the part that would work (Oven control board OEM part # EBR74632605), but this did not change the problem (and thankfully could be returned).

I know I don't bake often, but he has given up searching and I really don't want to keep turning off the circuit! If I can find the correct part, he will install it!

Any help or suggestion is appreciated!

via LRE30453ST/01 LG Oven/Broiler won't shut off!
by LindaWI

LG Oven/Broiler won't shut off!

My LG oven Model #LRE 30453ST /01 has become a problem since I last used the oven self-clean feature. The oven (both convection and regular) and broiler turn on and keep temperatures just fine. The problem begins when I go to turn off the oven or broiler! I push the Cancel/Off button, there is no click and the oven remains on. The only way to shut it off is to either unplug the entire range (or easier to go flip the circuit breaker)!

I checked with LG (originally to find a repair person) and they also checked the model and it is not included in any of their numerous recalls. It is over 125 miles one way to get an authorized LG repairman here, so that option is out!

My husband ordered what he thought was the part that would work (Oven control board OEM part # EBR74632605), but this did not change the problem (and thankfully could be returned).

I know I don't bake often, but he has given up searching and I really don't want to keep turning off the circuit! If I can find the correct part, he will install it!

Any help or suggestion is appreciated!

via LG Oven/Broiler won't shut off!
by LindaWI

VGSCS364GSS Viking Oven Only Starts After Slamming Door

Everything on our range works EXCEPT that the oven is finicky and won't start unless I open the door and shut it firmly. Even with that, sometimes we can't get it to start.

When I say that it won't start, the oven acts as if I haven't turned it on. No clicking, no lights, no other audible sounds.

I thought that it was the door switch, but the oven light turns off when I close the door, so if the same switch is used to activate the oven it appears that it is working OK. (I welcome feedback if there is another door switch for the oven to be able to activate).

I also notice that the blue indicator light turns on and off when it is running. I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

via VGSCS364GSS Viking Oven Only Starts After Slamming Door
by Tachyon

Viking Oven Only Starts After Slamming Door

Everything on our range works EXCEPT that the oven is finicky and won't start unless I open the door and shut it firmly. Even with that, sometimes we can't get it to start.

When I say that it won't start, the oven acts as if I haven't turned it on. No clicking, no lights, no other audible sounds.

I thought that it was the door switch, but the oven light turns off when I close the door, so if the same switch is used to activate the oven it appears that it is working OK. (I welcome feedback if there is another door switch for the oven to be able to activate).

I also notice that the blue indicator light turns on and off when it is running. I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

via Viking Oven Only Starts After Slamming Door
by Tachyon

Stovehood Fan Not Working

Looking for help !
The fan on my Zephyr Venezia Stovehood Fan (Model ZVE-E30AS) has stopped working. I has 6 speeds up to 750 CFM. Lights work fine. It is over 10 years old. I have previously torn it down to change bearings twice over the years so I am quite familiar with the guts of it. This has me stumped a bit. Unfortunately, I cannot locate the wiring diagram nor a repair manual. I am trying to find which electrical component is bad. The issue starting happening after a neighborhood power glitch which also blew out my Verizon FIOS requiring a new distribution box.
When you push the fan button there is no noise at all, no hum, nothing. I did a complete teardown, used jumpers, and this is what I determined:

1. Switch continuity verified OK
2. Circuit board output (to the fan motor) with motor unconnected is OK at 120v.
3. Circuit board output (to the fan motor) with motor connected is NG at 0v.
4. Starter capacitor (25 uF) tested OK on meter, spike on meter repeatedly as you switch leads. I do not have the right meter to test the uF tolerances. The cap was physically perfect with no bulges, etc.
5. Hooked up the fan motor direct to 120v with the starter cap in place and the fan ran perfectly. Although, it runs only at the highest speed (which I recognize from the sound).
6. I suspect something on the circuit board is sensing something not right with the motor/cap and therefore shuts the voltage off to the motor.

What do you guys think ?

via Stovehood Fan Not Working
by readheads

Maytag Double Oven - Upper Baking Element slow heat but broiler is fine

I have a Maytag double wall oven MEW6627DDB. The bottom oven baking element operates fine. The upper oven baking element is very slow to heat up. It'll cap off at 225 degrees after 30 minutes. I replaced the element and the problem is still there (element resistance registered 21 ohms). The broiler in the same upper oven works great. I have the schematic, so would this be the thermostat, the resistor for the baking element, or the control board? Removing this thing would be difficult for just me, so if I can get pointed in the right direction now it would help. Thanks!

via Maytag Double Oven - Upper Baking Element slow heat but broiler is fine
by cpz

Nesco 18 Quart Roast Air Convection Oven Fan Blade

Hello,

I have an 18 Quart Nesco Roaster Air Convection oven with a missing convection fan blade.

Pic of original fan blade



I'm looking for a replacement fan blade, however Nesco no longer carries a replacement so I'm looking for a 4 inch diameter convection fan blade that can be used, perhaps modified as a replacement.

The fan blade fits onto a 0.25 inch motor shaft using a clip (as seen in the pic). The fan motor shaft has a flat side where a set screw could be used to secure the fan blade.

I've found several ~4 inch convection fan blades that use a threaded shaft (some with nuts and washers). I suppose I could thread the motor shaft with a dia however I'm first trying to find an approx. ~4 inch convection fan blade that uses either a clip or set screw. (Possibly the fan blades bore hole can be larger than 0.25 inch.)

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via Nesco 18 Quart Roast Air Convection Oven Fan Blade
by albert01

Thermador SMW272YP - not heating, 100F on display

Hi. I'm hoping someone here smarter than myself can help me with my triple stack Thermador in-wall oven not heating. To preface, we've never done the self-cleaning and it was working fine since we moved in (over a year ago) and then all of the sudden the oven stopped heating at all and shows 100F on the display but the element isn't even starting to warm. The loud fan does kick on like it does when the oven is working properly but no heat at all and a constant 100F on the display. The techs and I have tried tricking it to heat by starting with broil cycle but that doesn't work either. Oven will not heat no matter what we try. We've had 5 or 6 techs come to look at it/"fix" it starting with home guard insurance (which was a nightmare) and we're still no closer to having our oven working again.

The first two techs came in a diagnosed as bad relay board and/or relay switch and Thermador no longer makes these parts. I'm pretty sure relay board = control board and relay switch = the bake & broil relays on the control board. After home guard wasted 2 months "waiting for parts", they decided to tell us that our oven is "commercial grade" and not covered by them (laugh out loud), they decided to pay us out maybe 1/5 the cost of a new oven.

At this point, I researched enough to take out the control board and display board and send to a circuit board repair company who tested and said the board is working fine, so they sent it back. I reinstalled and still same issue. So I called a local appliance repair company to come out. When they did I told them that the board has tested good at control board repair company, so he quickly diagnosed it as bad cut-off switch/button. This is a $5 part located in a small panel directly above the lower oven (only oven, not counting the microwave above it). He had my hopes up because he pressed that reset button for 2 seconds and then he started a bake cycle and put his hand in the oven and said it was heating up. However, as we were both looking at the display board and noticing it staying at 100F we felt the element and noticed it wasn't hot/warm at all. He said that it did begin to heat and then it must've cut out, but I don't believe it even began to heat up at all and maybe he just wanted to diagnose it and order the part so he could come back and install it.

He came back the next week and installed the cut-off switch which didn't help. He also connected some wire from the cut-off to some other wire, effectively bypassing this thermal cut-off and that didn't help either. At this point, he took out his voltage wand and started to place near the various relays and cables going into the control board while trying various heating cycles. I witnessed him holding the wand near the bake relay and starting a bake cycle to 400F or something like that, and after starting the bake cycle the wand stayed some color (either green or red) and then after about 4 seconds the color changed to the other color which he told me and I assume means that the relay lost power or failed to deliver voltage from the relay to the heating element. He held the wand near broil relay and started broil cycle and it was a little different. Instead of showing a solid color for several seconds (like it did on bake), it was flickering on one color and continued to do so until we turned the broil cycle off. He said that the broil is getting power but very low power. He said the problem is definitely in the control board and suggested that I send it to one of the two reputable control board repair facilities that his company usually sends boards to as he had never heard of the control board company that I found online and had previously shipped the board to.

I decided to contact the board repair company that I initially shipped to and told them everything from the paragraphs above and they sent me a shipping label to get it back to them for a senior tech to test. I just heard back from them 2 days ago that the board is still testing fine. I believe their standard testing on their test bed is to heat using bake and broil to at least 250F. They've given me the option to pay $120 for preventative maintenance which entails replacing the relays on the board and other component repair/replacement or they can ship the board back to me as-is again.

This is where I dearly need your advice / help! Is there any way that them repairing a board that is already working fine for them will make the oven start working again for me? Should I buy a new element and have someone install it? Or is there something else I should do? Thank you for reading this horror story and for any help you can offer!!

via Thermador SMW272YP - not heating, 100F on display
by sevencube

Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 Oven will not Heat

I have the Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 Gas Range (Model SF315PEGQ1). The oven will not heat. I have experienced this problem once before several years ago. Before, the glow plug had burnt in half. I replaced it and it has been working since then until now. Once I accessed the plug, I became concerned since the plug looked worn, but not burned through. I replaced it anyway, but the new one did not heat up. I checked the voltage on the connector from the stove to the plug, and got 120VAC when starting the oven. I put the old plug back in and it continued to not light up. {On a side possibly non-related note, none of the stove top igniters have worked for at least a year.} Any thoughts?

via Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 Oven will not Heat
by Bill in Buford