I could use some assistance in tracking down the cause of incorrect oven temperatures and slow oven heating.
Pretty much from day one, this has been a problem oven but at the time I had no idea it was behaving strangely.
Cakes were always very flat, food cooking too slowly but the temps always read out as it was set. One recipe happened to call for an initial temperature of 475 for a short time, then a reduction to 325 and that is when I discovered that the temperature displayed is not always the temp inside.
I cancelled the 475 and reset to 325 and then the oven tells me it was at 285 and it was now reheating to 325. After, I would periodically check to see if the temperature that was showing was in fact the temp. Each time I happened to be baking, I'd cancel and reset to the desired temp, only to find the oven was off by as much as 80 degrees. A manual thermometer confirmed.
The oven is extremely slow to reach any set temperature and often stalls for a long time or until I cancel and again reset the desired temp and again, the "stalled" temperature that was displayed was incorrect, it was lower. It can take 10-15 minutes or more for it to reach 350. This oven is 4 yrs old and has been lightly used. It was an expensive oven and if I did not have the matching microwave, I would have tossed it already out of frustration.
I am remodeling, so the oven is now out. I have tested the thermostat sensor and it comes back at 1167 ohms at 80 degrees.
I tested each element for the broiler, for the convection, and for the oven-baking. I have used convection only one time since new.
Baking element has four terminals, assuming twin elements.. outer terminals=57 ohms, inner terminals=34.6 ohms
Broil element has four terminals, as above...outer terminals=36.5 ohms, inner terminals=23.9 ohms
Convection element, ditto, four elements...outer terminals=34.7 ohms, inner terminals =62.3 ohms
Are these ohm readings within GE specs?
When "baking" only, do any other elements came on to assist in heating the oven to the correct temp, then turn off?
If the baking element is bad, am I faced with removing the entire oven interior to get at it?
Could it be the relay board that is my problem?
Many thanks for any help.
Pretty much from day one, this has been a problem oven but at the time I had no idea it was behaving strangely.
Cakes were always very flat, food cooking too slowly but the temps always read out as it was set. One recipe happened to call for an initial temperature of 475 for a short time, then a reduction to 325 and that is when I discovered that the temperature displayed is not always the temp inside.
I cancelled the 475 and reset to 325 and then the oven tells me it was at 285 and it was now reheating to 325. After, I would periodically check to see if the temperature that was showing was in fact the temp. Each time I happened to be baking, I'd cancel and reset to the desired temp, only to find the oven was off by as much as 80 degrees. A manual thermometer confirmed.
The oven is extremely slow to reach any set temperature and often stalls for a long time or until I cancel and again reset the desired temp and again, the "stalled" temperature that was displayed was incorrect, it was lower. It can take 10-15 minutes or more for it to reach 350. This oven is 4 yrs old and has been lightly used. It was an expensive oven and if I did not have the matching microwave, I would have tossed it already out of frustration.
I am remodeling, so the oven is now out. I have tested the thermostat sensor and it comes back at 1167 ohms at 80 degrees.
I tested each element for the broiler, for the convection, and for the oven-baking. I have used convection only one time since new.
Baking element has four terminals, assuming twin elements.. outer terminals=57 ohms, inner terminals=34.6 ohms
Broil element has four terminals, as above...outer terminals=36.5 ohms, inner terminals=23.9 ohms
Convection element, ditto, four elements...outer terminals=34.7 ohms, inner terminals =62.3 ohms
Are these ohm readings within GE specs?
When "baking" only, do any other elements came on to assist in heating the oven to the correct temp, then turn off?
If the baking element is bad, am I faced with removing the entire oven interior to get at it?
Could it be the relay board that is my problem?
Many thanks for any help.
via Help with GE Monogram oven
by sylvestercat
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